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TRfWashinaton's 
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Sketch Book 



THE 

WASHINGTON'S CROSSING 
SKETCH BOOK 



CHARLES BURR TODD 

AUTHOR OF 

"the true AARON BURR" 

"story of the city of new YORK" 

ETC. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 



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THE RIVER SCHOOL OF ART 

WASHINGTON'S CROSSING 

NEW JERSEY 

1914. 



Copyright 

1914 

By 

Charles Burr Todd 



All rights reserved 



APR -I 1914 




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A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF WASHINGTON 
CROSSING PARK 

BY 

Chas. W. Leavitt, Jr. 

Tn planning for the improvement of the historic grounds 
traversed by George Washington and the Continental 
Troops at the critical turning point in the eilorts of the 
United States to obtain freedom, it seeiiied best to arrange 
Washington Crossing Park so that it would recall as many 
of these stirring events as possible. 

The plan for this park eontem])lates a memorial bridge 
over the Delaware Eivcr at a point where the crossing 
of the troops from the Pennsylvania to the New Jersey 
shore took place. This bridge will link the two states and 
form a part of a direct route from New York City to 
Philadelphia, for which reason it will be greatly appre- 
ciated. 

From the New Jersey end of this bridge, it is proposed 
to re-establish the line of march, leading from the old 
house, which Washington occupied during the transfer of 
troops across the river, to Bear Tavern. Avhere he stopped 
for refreshment. At this latter point, the army was di- 
vided, one detachment going, under Greene, via Penning- 
ton, and the other, under Sullivan, via the River Road, to 
Trenton. 

Along the line of mai'ch. through the property which 
has been acquired by the Washington Crossing Park Com- 
mission, will be placed various mementoes of this event. 
Amonsr others will bo a wall and terrace extending out from 



the old homestead to a point overlooking the line of march, 
at Avhicli latter place there will be a flag-pole and a plaza, 
since there is a most beautiful view from here, over the 
whole park. Where the line of march passes out of the 
park property, it is proposed to create a plaza, with a statue 
in the center, surrounded by some high walls, in which 
will be ornamental gateways. In the sides of these walls 
will be bas-reliefs, depicting some of the scenes of the 
march and the various generals engaged in it. The cen- 
tral statue will, of course, be Washington. Similar treat- 
ments Avill be at either end of the bridge. 

It is further planned to reforest much of this park land 
and bring the park into its original condition, retaining 
only such cultivated portions as may seem wise for the 
landscape treatment. The old farm- or manor-house on 
the property will be retained, with rooms for the various 
historical societies. In connection with this building will 
be some ornamental flower gardens, in which the Colonial 
flowers will be cultivated. 



FOEEWORD. 

Washington's Crossing, brought into prominence of late 
by the project to erect there a N'ational Park, is situated 
in Mercer county, New Jersey, nine miles above Trenton 
by the river road, about sixty miles from New York and 
forty from Philadelphia. 

The project of making here a Memorial Park to com- 
memorate the spot where Washington and his Continentals 
crossed the Delaware on Christmas night, 1776, to surprise 
the Hessians and gain the splendid victory of Trenton, 
had its birth at a meeting held in Taylor Opera House, 
Trenton, in observance of the first Columbus Day as a 
legal holiday in New Jersey. 

At this meeting were present Governor Fort of New 
Jersey, the Mayor of Trenton, the Hon. F. 0. Briggs, 
United States Senator from New Jersey, the Hon. Jno. W. 
Wood, Representative in Congress of the Trenton district, 
and a great body of representative citizens of the city and 
state. Near its close a resolution was offered and passed 
with unanimity requesting Governor Fort to appoint a com- 
mission to bring the matter to the attention of the people 
of New eTersey and of the nation. Governor Fort gave 
the measure his unqualified approval and appointed twenty- 
five men and women of prominence throughout the state. 
This commission, however, did not seem to develop suf- 
ficient energy to initiate the movement and carry it to a 
successful conclusion, and the Legislature of 1912 passed 
a bill which superseded it by creating a much smaller com- 
mission, consisting of the Governor, Comptroller, Treasurer 
and five citizens of New Jersey, to carry out the object of 

9 



the bill. They were to serve without pay, and twenty-five 
thousand dollars were voted to carry out the purposes of 
the act. President Woodrow AVilson, then Governor of 
ISTew Jersey, heartily approved of the bill, and appointed 
as members Colonel William Libby of Princeton, the 
Eev. Jesse Joralemon of Jersey City, L, V. Silver of 
Trenton, Charles Blackman of Atlantic City, and William 
L. Doyle of Trenton. When the commission met and or- 
ganized Governor Wilson, as chairman, stated that while 
the work would have his hearty support he was far too 
busy to give it his personal attention, and suggested that 
the commission choose one of its number vice-chairman to 
act in his place. This was done. Mr. William L. Doyle 
being appointed to that position. At the same time Mr. 
L. V. Silver was elected secretary, while the treasurer and 
comptroller jointly filled the office of treasurer. This com- 
mission at once took action. It procured a plan for the 
erection of a monument that has met with hearty approval. 
It purchased the Blackwell farm of one hundred acres on 
the road upon which the patriots marched from the landing 
to Bear Tavern, and later engaged a prominent landscape 
engineer, Charles W. Leavitt. Jr.. of Xew York City, to 
prepare a plan for the proposed park and environment. It 
has also made proposals for other lands lying between the 
Blackwell farm and the landing needed in the proper de- 
velopment of the plan, and applied to the Legislature of 
1912 for an appropriation sufficient to purchase the same, 
but while the bill passed the Assembly it failed in the 
Senate. The commission is therefore now resting hoping 
for bettei' success with the Leo-jcdatiire of 1914. 



10 



II. 

THE DESCENT OX TRENTON. 

The event that gave Washington's Crossing its name 
and importance was l)nt a minor move on the military 
chess board, and but little more than a skirmish com- 
pared to the great battles of history, but tliere was a 
certain initiative about it. a courage, energy, endurance 
typical of the American spirit that has given it larger 
space in the popular imagination that any other battle of 
the Revolution, save perhaps Lexington and Bunker Hill. 
We are thrilled by Thermopylae and Horatio's Holding 
of the Bridge, but here was cold, darkness, tempest, snow 
and sleet, a wide river filled with floating ice, a nine 
miles' march, and a seasoned enemy to fight at the end, 
with an almost impassable river in the rear. Besides, 
consider what was at stake — the desperate necessity for 
the stroke. 

The August before Washington had suffered defeat en 
Long Island, had retreated to New York City, to Harlem 
Heights, across the Hudson into northern New Jersey, 
and across the state to the Delaware River, always with 
the victorious forces of Howe and Cornwallis so near in 
pursuit that every night their camp-fires lighted up his 
eastern horizon while they whitened the country with 
proclamations otTering free pardon to all "rebels" who 
would come in, lay down their arms and submit. Always 
beaten, always retreating, naked, half-starved, unpaid, hope- 
less, what wonder that his soldiers deserted by hundreds. 
or that those whose terms of enlistment expired refused 

11 



to re-enlist. Finall}-, early in December, he had been 
forced to put the Delaware between him and his foes. 

Brooding in his camp near Xewtown among the Pennsyl- 
vania hills, Washington saw that he must strike a blow 
that would redeem his lost prestige and demoralize the 
enemy, or, to use his own words m a letter to his In'other. 
•'the game was pretty nearly up." Fortunately the overween- 
ing confidence of his enemy soon gave him an opportunity. 

A band of Hessian mercenaries had led the British 
advance through Xew Jersey. They were subjects of six 
])etty princes of Germany who had been torn from their 
fields, workshops and even churches, and sold to King 
(Jeorge for £7, 4s, 4d per head, to aid him in subduing his 
American colonies. Three regiments of them — the Eall, 
von Knyphausen and von Lossberg, with a detachment 
of artillery, fifty Hessian yagers and twenty light dragoons, 
about 1400 men in all — had gone into winter quarters at 
Trenton, across the river from Xewtown, with other de- 
tachments at Bordentown, six miles below, and at other 
places on the east bank of the Delaware. Washington de- 
termined to capture the Trenton contingent. But first he 
must learn all about them — their number, where the officers 
were quartered, the position of the men, the outposts, sen- 
tinels, etc. He had had with him since leaving the Hudson 
a veteran of Arnold's march to Quebec who possessed 
marked qualifications for the post of scout and spy, John 
Honeyman of Clriggstown, New Jersey. A Scotch-Irishman 
by descent he possessed all the wit and resourcefulness of 
his race, and a rare power of disguising his personality 
so as to appear the opposite of his real self. Washington now 
sent for him and asking his officers to leaxe the room made 
known his wants. Honeyman accepted with alacrity, and 
donning his butcher's frock, with whip in hand went boldly 
to the Hessian camp, and while bargaining with the com- 
missaries for beef on the hoof gained all the information 

12 



his chief desired: lie even brouglit in a few small lots to 
disarm suspicion. On the afternoon of December 22d. he 
strolled leisurely out the Trenton road, as if going for more 
cattle, until three miles outside the Hessian line, he saw 
two American scouts and attracted their attention by sna])- 
]iing his Avhip. They pounced upon him instantly and 
haled him before the Commander-in-Chief. 

"Gentlemen," said Washington to his officers, "you may 
leave the room. I will examine this man in private." 
They did so. and the Commander was given the intelligence 
he had asked for to the most minute detail. "You have 
done well,*' said he, "and shall be rewarded. Xow listen : 
Spies and traitors swarm my camp and I can trust no one. 
You will, therefore, be placed in the guard-house for the 
night, and a court-martial ordered for your trial tomorrow, 
but I will see that you have a chance to escape during the 
night. Go, then, to Ball's camp, tell him of your imprison- 
ment here, and give the most gloomy account of our con- 
dition possible to lull him to security."' These instructions 
Honeyman carried out to the letter. 

The Germans feast and drink deep at Christmas, and 
generally end the day with a dance. AVashington, there- 
fore, chose the morning after Christmas for his attack, 
surmising that the enemy would be in no condition for 
defence. Preparations were at once begun. Three days' 
rations were cooked, the Durham boats on the river were 
commandeered* and his plan of battle formed. The latter 
was simple but judicious. General Ewing, at Bristol, 



"*These boats played so important a part in tlie movement that 
a brief description is in order. They were a sort of canoe from 
thirty to forty feet long, usually painted black, and carried a 
crew of four or five men. A steering oar that could be placed 
at either end and could be wielded by one man guided the craft 
on the down trip : going up stream she was poled. These boats 
carried merchandise and even iron ore up and down the Dela- 
ware from as far up as Oxford-Furnace, in Sussex county, to 
Philadelphia for years before canals came into vogue. 

13 



nearly opposite Trenton, was to cross the river and seize 
the bridge over Assiinpink Creek thus cutting off Kail's 
supports at the south; Putnam and Cadwallader were to 
cross farther south and attack Donop at Bordentown, while 
Washington, with the main army some 2400 strong, was 
to cross at McKonkey's Ferry, nine miles above Trenton, 
and strike Rail from the north. 

Early on Christmas morning the latter issued his order 
for the movement as follows : 

"Each brigade to be furnished with two good guides. 
General Stephen's brigade to form the advance party and 
to have with them a detachment of the artillery without 
cannon provided with spikes and hammers to spike up the 
enemies' cannon in case of necessity, or to bring them off 
if it can be effected; the party to be provided with drag 
ropes for tlic ])urpose of dragging off the cannon. General 
Stephen is to attack and force the enemies' guards and 
seize snch posts as may prevent them forming in the 
streets, and in case they are annoyed from the houses to 
set tlicni on fire. Tlie brigades of Mercer and Lord Ster- 
ling, under the command of Major General Greene, to sup- 
port General Stephen. This is the second division or left 
wing of tbe army and to march by way of the Pennington 
road. 

"St. Chiir's, Glover's and Sargent's brigades, under 
Major General Sullivan, to march by the river road. This 
is the first division of the army and is to form the right 
wing. Lord Sterling's brigade to form the reserve of the 
left wing, and General St. Clair's brigade the reserve of 
the rigbt wing. These reserves to form a second line in 
conjunction or a second line to each division as circum- 
stances may require. Eacli brigadier to make the colonels 
acquainted with the posts of their respective regiments in 
the brigade, and the major generals will inform them of the 
posts of tlie brigades in the line. Four pieces of artillery 

14 



to march at the head of each column; three pieces at the 
head of the second brigade of each division, and two pieces 
with each of the reserves. The troops to be assembled one 
mile back of McKonkey's Ferry, and embark on board the 
boats in the following order under the direction of Colonel 
Knox : 

"(Jeneral Stephen's brigade with the detachment of ar- 
tillery to embark first; General Mercer's next. Lord Ster- 
ling's next, General Fermoy's next, who will march into 
the rear of the second division and file otf from the Pen- 
nington to the Princeton road in such direction that he 
can, with the greatest ease and safety, secure the passes 
between Princeton and Trenton — the guides will be best 
judges of this. He is to take two pieces of artillery with 
him. St. Clair's, Glover's and Sargent's brigades to em- 
l)ark in order. Immediately upon their debarkation the 
whole to form in line and march in subdivisions from the 
right. The commanding officers of regiments to observe 
that the divisions be equal, and that proper officers be 
appointed for each, A profound silence to be enjoined and 
no man to quit his ranks under pain of death. Each 
brigadier to appoint flanking parties ; the reserve brigades 
to appoint the rear guards of the columns; the heads of 
the columns to be appointed to arrive at Trenton at five 
o'clock. Captain Washington and Captain Flahaven with 
a party of forty men each to march before the divisions 
and post themselves on the road abont three miles from 
Trenton and make prisoners of all going or coming out 
of town. General Stephen will appoint a guard to form 
a chain of sentries around the landing-place at a sufficient 
distance from the river to permit the troops to form, this 
guard not to suffer any person to go in or come out, but 
to detain all persons who attempt either; this guard to 
join their brigade when the troops are all over." 

The instructions of the brigade commanders to their 

15 



colonels may be learned from the followins: to Colonel 
Durkee from General Mercer, dated Christmas day! 

"Sir — you are to see that yonr men have three days' 
provisions ready cooked before 12 o'clock this forenoon, 
the whole fit for duty except a Sergeant and six men to be 
left with the bao-gage. and to parade precisely at four in 
the afternoon with their arms, accouterments and ammuni- 
tion in the best order, with their ])rovisions and blankets. 
You will have them told off in divisions in which order 
they are to march; eight men abreast, with the officers 
fixed to their divisions from which they are on no account 
to separate. No man is to quit his division under pain of 
instant punishment ; each officer is to provide himself with 
a piece of white paper stuck in his hat for a field mark. 
You will order your men to assemble and parade them in 
the valley immediately over the hill on the back of McKon- 
key's Ferry, to remain there for further orders. A pro- 
found silence is to be observed both by officers and men. 
and a strict and ready attention paid to whatever orders 
may be given."' 

There was on Washington's staff at this time a young offi- 
cer who possessed a happy flow of words with some literary 
style, and who in his diary wrote a graphic and striking 
account of the movement which we copy, as on the whole 
the most satisfactory narrative. 

"Dec. 25, Christmas morning. — They make a great deal 
of Christmas in Germany and no doubt the Hessians will 
drink a great deal of beer and have a dance tonight. They 
will be sleepy tomorrow morning. Washington will set the 
tune for them about daybreak. The rations are cooked. 
New flints and ammunition have been distributed. Colonel 
Glover's fishermen are to manage the boats just as they 
did in the retreat from I.ong Island. 

"Christmas, 6 p.m. — 'J'he regiments have had their even- 
ing parade but instead of returning to their quarters are 

16 



marching toward the ferrv. It is fearfully cohl and raw 
and a snow-storm setting in. The wind is northeast and 
heats in the faces of the men. It will be a terrible night 
for the men who have no shoes. Some of them have tied 
old rags around their feet, others are barefoot; but I have 
not heard a man complain. They are ready to suffer any 
hardship and die rather than give up their liberty. I have 
Just copied the order for marching. Both divisions are to 
go from the Ferry to Bear Tavern, two miles. They will 
separate there. Washington will accompany Greene's di- 
vision with a part of the artillery down the Pennington 
road ; Sullivan and the rest of the artillery will take the 
river road. 

■'Dec. 2G, o a.m. — I am writing in the ferry house. The 
trooi)s are all over and the boats have gone back for the 
artillery. We are three hours behind the set time. Glover's 
men have had a hard time to force the boats through the 
floating ice Avith the snow drifting in their faces. I never 
have seen Washington so determined as he is now. He 
stands on the bank of the river wrapped in his cloak, super- 
intending the landing of his troops. He is calm and col- 
lected, but very determined. The storm is changing to 
sleet and cuts like a knife. The last cannon is being landed 
and we are ready to mount our horses. 

"Dec. 2(i, Xoon. — It was nearly 4 o'clock when we started. 
The two divisions divided at Bear Tavern.* At Birming- 
ham, three miles and a half south of the tavern, a man 
came with a message from General Sullivan that the storm 
was wetting their muskets and rendering them unfit for 
service. ''Tell General Sullivan," said Washington, "to use 
the bayonet. I am resolved to take Trenton." It was 
broad daylight when we came to a house where a man was 
chopping wood. He was very much surprised when he saw 



"General Rtrvker says, in liis "Battles of Trenton and Prince- 
ton," tliat tliey sejjarated at Birminjihani. 

17 



us. 'Can vou tell me where the Hessian picket is?' Wash- 
iiigton asked. The man hesitated, but T said 'Yon need 
not be frightened. It is General Washington who asks the 
question.' His face brightened, and he pointed toward the 
house of Mr. Howell. It was just 8 o'clock. Looking 
down the road I saw a Hessian running out from the 
house. He yelled in Dutch and swung his arms. Three 
or four others came out with their guns. Two of them 
fired at lis but their bullets whistled over our heads. 
Some of General Stephen's men rushed forward and cap- 
tured two. The others took to their heels, running toward 
Mr. Calhoun's house, where the picket guard was stationed, 
al)out twenty men under Captain Altenbrockum. They 
came running out of the house. The captain flourished 
his sword and tried to form his men. Some of them fired 
at us, others ran toward the \illage. The next moment we 
heard, drums beat and a bugle sound, and then from the 
west came the boom of a cannon. General Washington's 
face lighted up instantly, for he knew that it was one of 
Sullivan's guns. We could see a great commotion down 
towai'd the meeting house, men running here and there, 
oflhcers swinging their swords, artillerymen harnessing 
their horses. Captain Forrest unlimbered his guns. Wash- 
ington gave the order to advance and we rushed on to the 
junction of King and Queen streets. Forrest wheeled six 
of his guns into position to sweep both streets. The rifle- 
men under Colonel Hand, and Scott's and Lawson's bat- 
talions went upon the run through the fields on the left to 
gain possession of the Princeton road. The Hessians were 
just ready to open fire with two of their cannon when 
Captain Washington and Lieutenant Monroe with their 
men rushed forward and captured them. We saw Kail 
come riding up the street from his headquarters which were 
at Stacy Pott's house. We could hear him shouting in 
Dutch 'My brave soldiers, ad\ance !' His men were fright- 

19 



ened and confused, for our men were firin,2: npon them 
from fences and houses and they wei'e falling fast. Instead 
of advancing they ran into an apple orchard. The officers 
tried to rally them, hut our men kept advancing and pick- 
ing off the officers. It was not long before Eall tumbled 
from his horse, and his soldiers threw doAATi their guns 
and gave themselves up as prisoners. While this was taking 
place on the Pennington road C*olonel John Stark from New 
Hampshire, in the advance on the river road, was driving 
Knyphausen's men pell mell through the town. Sullivan 
sent a portion of his troops under St. Clair to seize the 
bridge and cut off the retreat of the Hessians toAvard 
Bordentown. Sullivan's men shot the artillery horses and 
captured two cannon attached to Knyphausen's regiment. 

"Dec. 26, 3 p.m. — I have been talking with EalFs adju- 
tant, Lieutenant Piel. He says that Eall sat down to a 
grand dinner at the Trenton Tavern Christmas day, that 
he drank a great deal of wine and sat up nearly all niglit 
playing cards. He had been in bed but a short time when 
the battle began, and was sound asleep. Piel shook him but 
found it hard work to wake him up. Supposing he was wide 
awake Piel went out to help rally the men, but Eall not 
appearing he went back and found him in his night shirt. 
'What's the matter?' Eall asked. Piel informed him that 
a battle was going on. This seemed to bring him to liis 
senses. He dressed himself, rushed out and mounted his 
horse to be mortally wounded a few moments later. 

"We have taken nearly 1000 prisoners, six cannon, more 
than 1000 muskets, twelve drums and four colors. About 
forty Hessians were killed or wounded. Our loss is only 
two killed and three wounded. Two of the latter are Cap- 
tain Washington and Lieutenant Monroe who rushed for- 
ward very bravely to seize the cannon. I have just been 
with C4enerals Washington and Greene to see Eall. He will 
not live through the night. He asked that his men might 

20 



be kindly treated. Washington promised that he wouhl 
see they were well cared for. 

"Dec. 27, 1776. — Here we are back in our camp with the 
prisoners and trophies." 

'J'hus was the victory won. Washington, however, did 
not succeed in capturing the Hessian posts below Trenton 
as he had planned, Cadwallader and Putnam not being 
able to get their cannon across the river because of the 
inclemency of the night. 



21 



in. 

THE CROSSIXG AS IT IS TODAY. 

Many will no doubt read these pages who have never seen 
the Crossing nor ever will see it. To them it is my purpose 
in this chapter to present as real and. graphic a picture of 
it as it is possible to make with pen, pencil and camera. Its 
salient and most interesting physical feature is, of course, 
the Delaware — here a noble stream, fully a thousand feet 
in width, and so deep that its waters never brawl or babble, 
but flow sedately on in spirals and upspringing eddies. I 
have myself traced it to its topmost spring in the western 
Catskills near the village of Eoxbury in the State of New 
York. While still a brook it flows through the grounds of 
a famous philanthropist and then southwest between moun- 
tains until reaching Deposit, and when but a few miles 
from the Susquehanna, it turns sharply southeast and flows 
between the two great states of New York and Pennsyl- 
vania until reaching Port Jervis, N. Y., when it turns 
sharply south and holds that general direction to its mouth 
in Delaware bay. forming the boundary line of New Jersey 
and Pennsylvania. All the way, quite down to the Crossing, 
it has leaped and babbled and glided between mountains 
receiving from them thousands of brooks, creeks and rivers, 
but at the Crossing the mountains sink down into broad 
ridges, a rolling country. Opposite, on the Pennsylvania 
side, are wide meadows stretching back half a mile to high 
ground, but on the Jersey side the hills impinge sharply 
on the river ; these are cut by numerous watercourses into 
ravines, the most romantic and picturesque imaginable, for 

22 



their beds being formed of old red sandstone disintegrate by 
strata forming walls across the stream, over which the 
waters dash in ripples or foaming cascades. Nowhere is 
there a country that would more readily lend itself to the 
art of the landscape engineer. On the left, as you face 
the river, is the new steel bridge replacing the old covered 
wooden structure, swept away by the flood of 1903, and 
connecting the Crossing Avith the village of Taylorsville 
on the Pennsylvania shore. Back of you is the Nelson 
house, covering the old ferry house, where the young sub- 
altern stopped in 1776 to record Washington's crossing, well 
knowing that he and his comrades were making history. 
The owners show one the old walls now forming part of 
their basement and cellar. The McAdam road from Tren- 
ton to Landiertville passes between this house and the river, 
and continues on up the bank of the stream. Just back of 
the Xelson house — almost touching a corner — are the tracks 
of the Trenton division of the Pennsylvania Eailroad — Del- 
aware Valley Line — giving access to the Allegheny coal 
fields, and connecting with lines for Buffalo and the west. 
They are laid on the west bank of the DelaAvare and Earitan 
canal, not the main stem, but a feeder constructed from 
Trenton to BulFs Island, a short distance above Lambert- 
ville, where its boats are locked into the river, towed across 
and locked into the canal on the Pennsylvania side, which 
has direct connection with the Lehigh coal fields. It was 
also intended to siqiply Avater to the main stem. 

The road up which the troops marched that fateful morn- 
ing is not the present macadamized Pennington road lead- 
ing across the railroad and canal and thence nearly due 
east to the Bear Tavern, which still stands about a mile 
from the river. This old road Avas blotted out by the canal 
and railroad. It left the ferry landing a short distance 
north of the Xelson house and Avound up through the fields 
to the old ]\rcIvonkey house, still standing, and at which 

24 



Waphingtoii and his officers are said to have stopped for 
refreshments. From the McKonkey house the old road 
may easily be traced as a farm lane, bounded on the south 
side by the wire fence dividing the Blackwell and ^IcKon- 
key farms and on the north by a line of trees and an occa- 
sional fence post standing where the old fence nsed to be. 
It is one field north of the present Pennington road. The 
large brick mansion on top of tlie hill as you go east toward 
Bear Tavern is the Blackwell house, with its farm of one 
hundred acres adjoining, recently acquired by the State of 
ISTew Jersey. The purchase of the adjoining McKonkey 
and Nelson farms will bring the state's holdings to the 
river bank and it is then proposed to erect the whole into 
a memorial park in honor of the men who suffered here 
nnd as an object lesson in patriotism and self-sacrifice to 
the living. A half mile farther east, at the four corners 
formed l)y the crossing of the Trenton and Harbourton and 
Pennington and Washington's Crossing roads, stands the 
famous Bear Tavern mentioned in all the general orders, 
diaries and letters of the army as the first objective after 
crossing the river and as the point where the column di- 
vided, the first division taking the Trenton road, which 
liere runs nearly due south, and the second, which Wash- 
ington accompanied, marching farther on and taking the 
Scotch road which ran into the road from Pennington to 
Trenton.* It should be understood that in Revolutionary 
times the present excellent river road did not exist. On 
account of the many deep ravines and watercourses on the 
immediate bank of the river the Trenton road ran about 
a mile back, where it crossed the ravines nearer their heads. 
Bear Tavern stands today very much as it was in 1776, and 
with its huge fireplace, paneled walls, heavy beams, low 



•^General Stryker, an authority, says the column did not divide 
until it reached Birmingham, 31/' miles south of the Tavern, but. 
does not »ive his source of information. 



26 




Top — Jacob's Creek a Few Rods Above Where the Continentals Crossed 
On Their Way to Trenton in 1776 

Bottom — Steele's Creek Near Its Entrance into the Delaware 
Photos by Chas. B. Todd 



ceilings and deep cupboards is an interesting s]iocimen of 
the old time conntrv tavern. 

The region round about al)ounds in delightful walks and 
drives. The main road, for instance, from the Crossing to 
the village of Titusville a mile north along the river bank, 
crossing beautiful Steele's creek by the way ; or, keeping 
on above Titusville one takes the first road after crossing the 
canal which winds along the bed of a babbling brook, under 
the mountains, ascending steadily by well-kept farms and 
farmhouses until it comes out on the Titusville and Penn- 
ington road, a mile east of the former. Here, if like the 
writer you have a constitutional dislike of returning by the 
same route, take a cross road which leads over wide uplands 
and down into two ravines for a mile to the macadam road 
a short distance west of Rear Tavern, whence, turning west 
three-quarters of a mile, l)rings one to the Crossing. Again, 
after leaving the main T.ambertville road under the moun- 
tain take the first path to the left which Avinds up tlie moun- 
tain to the summit where are situated the farmhouse and 
breeding pens of the Delaware Valley Pheasantry, devoted 
to the raising of the beautiful and useful Asiatic bird for 
market. The view from the summit is grand, the whole 
valley of the Delaware for twenty miles lieing spread out 
before one with the river like a ribbon of light unrolled in 
the centre. This road is a private one leading to private 
property, but it is understood that the well disposed public 
may use it so long as they do not trespass on the preserves. 

If you are a pedestrian, thank Heaven, cross the toll 
bridge to Taylorsville and there take the trolley cars of the 
Xew Jersey and Pennsylvania Transportation Company to 
Land^ertville, nine miles north, thence walk back to the 
Crossing by the canal toAvpath. On a dreamy autumn 
day the journey is one long to be remembered ; at times 
road, canal, railroad and river are crowded together under 
the dark, wooded mountain ; again you are out in the 

28 



open with the meadows all about you and canal and railroad 
are alone. At times you meet a canal boat drawn by two, 
sometimes three, mules walking tandem. There is little 
traffic on the canal now, but trains half a mile long grind 
!)y bringing hard coal and crushed stone from the moun- 
tains and carrying soft coal back. Another very pretty 
walk or drive is the Jacob's Creek valley road from Somer- 
set station, a mile below the Crossing, to Pennington five 
miles up the valley of Jacob's Creek. When a mile up, if 
you take the road turning sharply to the left and crossing 
the creek, a mile will bring you to Bear Tavern whence you 
can return to the Crossing by the macadam road. 



29 



IV. 

THE OLD BRIDGE AT THE "CEOSSING" AND 
ITS GHOST. 

Through autumn days at the Crossing we lingered on 
tlie bridge watching the swirling eddies of the Delaware 
below, sometimes speculating as to the number of black- 
lurds hi the great flocks that stretched from shore to shore, 
anon scolding back at a saucy little kingfisher who, percbed 
on the topmost chord of the bridge, eyed the waters as in- 
tently as did we, but for a very different purpose, hoping 
to extract therefrom a dinner in the shape of an unwary 
chub or minnow. 

One day, Hallowe'en drawing near, when, as all know 
earth and air are full of ghosts, we became conscious of 
another presence on the bridge and looking up there stood 
the (jueerest little old num, and clad in the strangest cos- 
tume. His hair was long, scanty, and bleached by age; his 
face was thin and wizened and wrinkled and tanned; his 
eyes had sunken so far into their sockets that one could 
scarcely catch their expression; each individual hair of his 
whiskers stood on end like a Persian cat's, and his hands 
and fingers were like claws, so thin and contracted by age 
were they. He had a tattered old three-cornered hat on his 
head and wore the tow frock anciently worn by farmers, 
and the overalls of an artisan. 

"Who are you?" we asked at length when we had mas- 
tered all these details. 

"I am a composite," he replied, "the ghost of the old 
bridge, the refined and sublimated essence of all the men 

31 



and women who crossed it during its span of seventy-five 
years. Xo one ever saw nie before ; you see me because you 
are in tune with spiritual liarmonies, and because at 
Hallowe'en we spirits have power to draw nearer mortals 
than at any other time. That teamster there approaching 
Avill pass and see me not." 

Sure enough the man, half hidden in his little box in 
the middle of his load of hay, greeted me with a curt nod 
but seemed to have no perception of the strange figure at 
my side. 

"I was born away back in 1831," he continued, "almost a 
century ago. My father, as I was told and believe, was a 
young man living on the Pennsylvania shore, very much 
in love with a pretty damsel on the Jersey side, who in 
times of storm or floating ice was prevented for days to- 
gether from reaching his inamorata's side. 

" 'Why can't we have a bridge across this old river ?' he 
e.\claimed one day, when for a week he had been unable to 
cross. Xow, all the world loves a lover and everybody 
sympathized with the poor young man. So the Idea, that 
is 1, myself, was born. A bridge? Why not? All up and 
down both shores the question was repeated, discussed at 
store, church, blacksmith shop, wherever men met. It was 
plain that no one man could build it alone, but that one 
hundred could. So they combined, near a hundred of them, 
formed a joint stock company, and went to both state legis- 
latures for a charter giving them power to levy tolls on 
those using it. In the big house yonder on the Jersey 
shore they have the very first record book of the corpora- 
tion, and it is recorded therein that the first meeting of 
the stockholders was held on June G, 1833, and that by 
1831 the bridge was finished, and a 'toll-gatherer' was 
appointed to collect tolls. Keally, there was no opposition 
except from Sandy McConkey, the old ferry man, who 
feared his occupation would be gone; but he had to go, as 

32 



so iiiany other men comfortably placed ha\e since had to 
eo before the march of improvement. When the new toll- 
gatherer was appointed there was quite a discussion as 
to the tolls ; but they were finally fixed upon as follows, 
just as you will find them Avritten in the old book : 

" 'To every wagon, coach or carriage drawn by four 
horses or mules, or sled or sleigli so drawn, 30 cts. 

" 'To every wagon, coach or carriage drawn by three 
horses or mules, or sled or sleigh so drawn, 30 cts. 

" 'To every pleasure carriage drawn by two horses or 
mules, 25 cts. 

" 'To every farm wagon or sled drawn by two horses or 
mules, 20 cts. 

■' 'Wagon, carriage, sled or sleigh, drawn by one horse or 
mule, 10 cts. 

" 'Horse or mule and rider, 10 cts. 

" 'Lead or drove horse or mule, 6 cts. 

" 'Cattle of all kinds, 3 cts. 

" 'Sheep or swine, 1 ct. 

" '^Alieelbarrow or hand-cart, 4: cts. 

" 'Foot person, 2 cts.' 

"At a later meeting held Feb. 13, 1854, they ordained 
tliat carriages and wagons taking passengers to the railroad 
should pass at half rates. Tradition says that the first man 
to cross the new bridge, and on his wedding day at that, 
was the young man who had been the father of the Idea. 

"You should know that this is a very aristocrat among 
bridges, sir: for only a few yards up yonder Washington 
and his patriots crossed on that Christmas night of 1T76, 
when they made history and brought a nation to the birth. 

"But I don't like this new steel bridge,'' he continued. 
"Against the skyline it looks like a huge spider's web 
drawn across the river ; and the steel girders rust and have 
to be painted often and there is no cover for the floor 

33 



planks, and being wet by every storm they quickly decay. 
The old bridge, now, was solid and substantial, with a roof 
over it and covered sides; a little dark and smelly inside, 
I grant, but a solid, black mass that could be seen for 
miles up or down the river; while the storm-buffeted trav- 
eler, once he got inside, was sure of a shelter until he 
reached the other shore. 

"'I never was troubled with the blues while the old bridge 
stood. There was constant warfare between the Spirit of 
the Eiver and myself. He resented being placed in bondage 
by me, as it were. My five great stone piers chafed his 
proud current, and very early he swore to be freed from 
them. Three times he bowed his mighty form and jumped 
from his mountain lair to sweep me away, and twice he 
got me. Every spring T would watch the waters rise and 
rise to within a few inches of my floor beams and rush in 
solid tons of swirling battalions against my piers, but old 
Simeon Baldwin had done his work well and never one 
budged from its rocky bed. Then every winter massive 
cakes of ice came charging down and struck them with the 
force of a thousand trip hammers, but never a pier was 
moved an inch from its foundation. At length in January, 
1(S41, wearying of these tactics he tried another method. 
For days and days it rained steadily, melting six feet of 
snow in the mountains. Inch by inch, foot by foot, I saw 
the waters rise against my piers. 

" 'Ha, ha!' cried he, 'I'll have you now !' 

" 'Don't you believe it,' said I, but I had misgivings. 
Higher and higher ran the water. The river ice broke up 
and huge cakes grinding and thrashing came against me, 
while the air was full of powdered ice and splinters. Up 
to the highest watermark ever known came the waves, 
lapped it out, rose a foot over that, then two feet, with the 
ice pack clamoring against me like hungry wolves, until 
at length creaking and groaning in all my timbers I went 

34 



out and dowji, liUiiig tlic iiR'adows with rjagments, while 
the great river sang jJiPans of victory. 

"But r, the Idea, was not dead. So useful had hccii tlie 
old l)iidge that men set to woi-k at onee to rephace it. My 
pieis were little damaged. They raised them two feet 
higher than before and in a yeai-'s time the toll gatherer 
was again at woi'k antl tlie farm wagons and coaches and 
all llie rest were rattlinu' and trundling across the bridge, 
while the Spirit of the Eiver sniked in his lair and made 
ready foi' anothei' foray. However, it was sixty-two years 
before he got me again, and then only l)y taking me at a 
mean disadvantage. It was in October that he sncceeded, 
and who ever heard liefore of a freshet in October, the 
month of repose, when the haze is on the hills, the valleys 
like dreamland, the harvest moon in the sky, and great 
nature, wearied with the growing ]iains of snmmer, relaxes 
hei- virile body iii the \ery quintessence of repose? Rnt 
the fres1i(4 came and T went — though my piers were two 
feet above the previous high-water mark, 1 went. On 
October lOth it happened, in 1003. In the big house yon- 
der there was then living a comely youth whom T loved 
because he was so fond of the river and the bridge, s]XMiding 
many of his leisure hours upon it, sometimes with a rod 
and reel in hand, more often Avatching the eddies appear 
and disappeai' between the piers. Xow a business man in 
Trenton — he was then going to school daily in that city. 
He kept a diary, as some schoolboys do, and under date 
of October 1 Oth wrote : 

" 'Cot up at five-thirty a.m. River very high. Went to 
Trenton on eight-thirty train. Came out at twelve m. and 
\vent to Wari'en St. station. Mr. (loddard said no trains 
would run so I walked from Yardley up the tow-path. 
.\i'rived at Taylorsville at 4.30 p.m. Cot across the 
bridge just in time because the water was then touching 
the floor. I was the last person to cross from Taylorsville 

3o 



to this side. Eiver continued rising all night. First part 
of bridge went at 10.35 p.m. Second part near the Jersey 
shore at 12.30." '" 

The thin, piping voice ceased. I looked ut) Init no form 
was visible. I rushed to the Jersey shore and swept the 
river road A\'ith ray eye, bnt nothing was to l)e seen. Then 
to the Pennsyhania side, l3ut he was not in sight. Xor have 
I caught a glimpse of him from that day to this, though 
I have haunted the bridge day in and day out. lioping that 
he mio^ht reveal himself. 



36 




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XOW BUT A COUNTEY LAXE. 

Just at'te'i- orossing the canal going east a wide road 
opens on the left leading np to a fine old Colonial dwelling 
set in spacious grounds, which in 1776 is said to have been 
the home of the old ferry-master, William McKonkey. On 
the left as one goes toward it is a large stone slab with 
a bronze tablet set in it bearing this inscription : 

"This tablet is erected by the Society of the Cincinnati 
in the State of Xew Jersey to commemorate the crossing of 
the Delaware Eiver by General Washington and the Conti- 
nental Army on Christmas night of 1776.'' 

This tablet was erected on land donated by the Misses 
Nelson, and was dedicated with appropriate ceremonies on 
Oct. 15, 1895. There is a similar tablet across the river 
on the Pennsylvania shore. 

Continuing on we come, in a hundred yards more, to the 
McKonkey house itself which is shaded by giant trees, some 
of them rare species as the black walnut, the Kentucky cof- 
fee tree, and the mammoth willow back of the spring house. 
From the latter a walled in spring sends a rivulet of clear 
cold water down the hillside to the canal. Few houses so 
old are so well preserved as this. On its front are the long, 
scalloped, original shingles, split from blocks of wood and 
shaved to the thin edge wdth a drawing knife. Within are 
the low ceilings, the paneled walls, the huge fireplace, the 
narrow stairs, wooden hinges on cupboard, doors, closets 
tucked away under the stairways and in nooks and corners 
that marked the middle class Colonial dwelling. The ladies 

38 



in charge show one the deep cupboard in which the liquid 
refreshments were kept of which, tradition says, Washing- 
ton and his officers partook before the column began its 
march. 

The road from the ferry landing in 1776 wound up 
through the meadows yonder to this old house, through its 
yard, by the barn, and followed the course of the farm lane 
yonder as is stated in another part of this ^York. This lane 
is a pleasant place in which to linger through autumn days 
and prolific of fancies. It is open to sun and sky and the 
views of mountain, valley and river from it are a revelation 
of the powers of the Infinite in planning a landscape. It 
does not seem to belong to any one. It has not been mowed 
this year; the thick grass that clothed it is withered and 
•Iry, the birds that nested here — the song sparrow, sweet- 
voiced thrush and wild canary — have raised their broods 
and Hown to warmer climes; the goldenrod and purple 
aster that one is sure bloomed here in their day are but 
memories; there is nothing to remind one of war, yet war 
once was here ; for up this road marched the ragged column 
of 1776 with the ridiculous little six and twelve pounders, 
and howitzers jolting and bounding along the uneven 
ground, a veritable Falstaffian ai'niy, yet marching on to 
victory. 

It is a satisfaction to note that in the plan of the pro- 
posed Memorial Park the commissioners have restored this 
lane to its former dio^nitv and made of it a road. 



39 



vr. 

There were not many makers of ballads in the Revolu- 
tionary armies or camps. The times were far too stern 
and grim for the "flower of poesie and song" to bloom. 
Trumbnll, Barlow, Alsop, Dr. Dwight, Freneau, Paine and 
a few others are knoAvn to ns. One of them wrote a ballad 
called the ''Battle of Trenton," but anonymously, and 
Frank Forrester (H. AY. Herbert) at a later day gave us 
his "Surprise at Trenton." These are the only songs in 
honor of the event that we have been able, after thorough 
search, to discover. Forrester's ballad occurs in a thin 
volume of his verse privately printed by Wiley in 1888 at 
six dollars the copy and now exceedingly rare. This poem 
we reproduce : 



40 



THE SURPRISE AT TRENTON 

BY 

Hexry WiLLIA]\[ Herbel'T. 

Eighteen hundred years liad passed 

Lacking only twenty-four, 
Since the Savior one-begotten 

Meek the Virgin Mother bore. 
Shepherds on that very night 

Tn the fiekls their watch did keep 
While the busy world around 

Silent lay all bathed in sleep. 

Lowly in his cradle-manger 

There the infant Savior slept, 
While the Maiden Mother o'er him 

Tears of humble gladness wept; 
And the Magi found him there 

Who had followed from afar, 
When they saw it in the East 

The Redeemer's holy star. 

For the star it went before them 

And the Wise Ones followed on 
"Till it stood above the spot 

And their joyous goal was won. 
Humbly there they bowed the knee. 

Humbly did their gifts unfold, 
Gifts of ivory and aloes. 

Myrrh, and frankincense and gold. 

41 



Eighteen hundred years had passed ; 

Eighteen hundred years and eight 
Since the Savior one begotten 

Bowed Him to a felon's fate. 
Nailed npon the cursed tree 

Suffered there our God and Lord. 
Peace to man He came to give, 

Peace He left not, but a sword. 

Noon it was of Christmas night 

On the wintry Delaware, 
Sulleidy the fallen snow 

Floated through the murky air, 
Sullenly the flooded river 

Moaned the whitening shores along. 
Sullenly the drifting ice 

Ground and tost in the current strong. 

Not a star was in the sky, 

Not a sound was on the breeze. 
Not a voice or stir was there 

In the thickly feathered trees. 
Only through the heavy gloom 

Muttered low the mournful rushing 
Of the deep and dismal stream. 

Through its icy fetters gushing. 

Lonely were the streets of Trenton, 

Trenton town hy the Delaware. 
Quartered there was the British Horse, 

Quartered the hearded Hessians there. 
Deep the snow on the roofs above. 

Deep the trackless roads below. 
Hark to the bell ! 'Twas midnight chime. 

Oh, but the strokes were stern and slow, 

42 



Not a guard was on his post, 

Not a round its circuit made; 
What the risk in sueli a storm 

Where the foe that should invade? 
Far beyond tlie flooded stream 

Pennsylvania wilds among, 
Far the Patriot army lay 

Frail, disjointed and unstrung. 

Washington, who, late so glorious. 

Braved in equal arms his King, 
Sees the boasted bird victorious 

Sadly droop its baffled wing. 
"Soldiers, speed the Christmas feast, 

Soldiers, fill the bumpers fair. 
Pass the bottle, pile the hearth; 

Cutting cold the wintry air. 

"Let the toast our country be 

Fi'om whatevei" country we; 
Some of German Fatherland. 

Britons ever bold and free. 
Comrades troll the jolly stave; 

Pass the bottle, fear no wrong. 
For the rebel hosts are weak 

And the wintry river strong." 

Tush ! they dare not. We who drove them 

Weak and weary, faint and few, 
Ti'acked them weaponless and wounded 

O'er the roads by their bloody dew, 
AA'hich to every painful print 

Trickled from their shoeless feet. 
Tush ! The craven dove as soon 

Shall the fearless falcon meet. 

43 



Madly raged the jovial rout, 

Loud the hursts of loyal song 
Eang amid the drifting storm, 

Eang the snowy fields along. 
Little deemed the roistering crew 

As their revelry they plied 
What avengers stern and sure 

Gathered on the icy tide. 

Gathered soon their glee to mar, 

Hearts afire and hands on hilt. 
Eedder liquor far than wine 

Long ere morning shall he spilt. 
Hark ! The deep and solemn hum 

Louder than the river's flow 
Eising heavier through the night 

Xearer through the drifting snow. 

'Tis the hum of mustered men, 

Barges with their burthen brave, 
Painfully and long are tossing 

On the fierce and freezing wave. 
Horse and foot and guns are there 

Struggling through the awful gloom; 
Soon their din shall rouse the foe, 

Eouse him like the trump of doom. 

Firm as some gigantic oak 

Stood their chief on the hither shore, 
Marking how his comrades true 

Prospered Avith the laboring oar, 
Marking how each barge and boat 

Slowly battled to the strand, 
Marking how the serried lines 

Mustered as they came to land. 
44 



('a I 111 his high and iiuhle port, 

Cahii his mighty face severe. 
None had seen it change witli doubt 

None had seen it pale with fear, 
And it showed as gi'andly now 

In that wild and perilous liour 
Fraught with wisdom half divine 

Fraught with more tlian mortal power. 

Steadily he stood and gazed 

Xot a cloud upon his brow, 
Calmer in the banquet hall 

Xever had he been than now. 
Yet his fate was on the cast — ■ 

Life and fame and country, all. 
Sterner game was never played 

Death or Freedom, win or fall. 

Fall he and his country's hope 

Sets, a sun to rise no more. 
Win he and her dawning light 

Yet may fill the unfathomed skies. 
Fall he, and his name must wane. 

Rebel chief of rgbel band. 
Win he, it shall live forever 

Fatlier of his native land. 

Silent stood he, grave and mute. 

Listening now the distant roar 
From the half heard town, and now 

Gazing on the crowded shore. 
Crowded with his Patriot host 

Burning for the vengeful fray. 
Ear and eye and heart erect 

Waiting for the trumpet's bray. 

45 



Silent 'till the latest boat 

Safe had stemmed the whirling- tide, 
'Till the latest troo]) was landed 

Heart to heart and side by side. 
Then he turned his eyes aloft 

Moved his lips f^r a little sjiace. 
Mighty though he was he bowed him 

Meekly to the throne of grace. 

"God of battles, Lord of might, 

Let my country but be free. 
To Thy mercies I commend me 

(llory to thy Son and Thee." 
Then he waved his arm aloft 

With a mai'tial gesture proud 
"Let your march" he said, "be silent 

'Till your cannon speak aloud." 

Silent was their rapid march 

Through the mist of rain and sleet. 
For the deep and drifted snow 

Gave no sound beneath their feet. 
Clashed no musket, beat no drum 

As they flitted thi'ough the gloom 
Liker far than living men 

To the phantoms of the tomb. 

Morn was near, but overcast 

Li the dim and rayless sky 
Not a gleam foreshowed his coming 

Yet the pallid sun was nigh. 
Morn was near, but not a guard 

Heard their march or saw them come. 
Lo, they form — the very dogs 

In the fatetl town are dumb. 

46 



Hark ! Tlio bell— the buoIeV blast ; 

Hark! The long and loud ahinns. 
Beat the drums — but all too late — 

All too late they call to arms. 
Forth they I'ush in disarray 

Forming fast with fearful din. 
Open now ye mouths of flame. 

Pour your crashing xolleys in. 

See the sharp and running Hash 

Hark! The long and rattling roll^ — 
There the western muskets blaze 

Every shot a mortal soul. 
\'ain was then the Hessian yager, 

Yain the English horseman's steel, 
Vain the German's hardihood. 

Vain the Briton's loyal zeal. 

Fast they fall the best and bravest, 

Unavenged and helpless fall. 
Rallying their men dismayed 

Campbell bold and gallant Kail. 
Then before that murderous hail 

Thick, incessant, sure as death 
Reel the shattered columns back, 

Gasp the dying chiefs for breath. 

Lo, 'tis o'er. Their arms they ground. 

All that brave men can did they, 
Fought while fight they could, then yielded. 

What avails the hopeless fray? 
What avails the horse's might 

Though his neck be clothed in thunder, 
What the cannon's fiery breath 

Eiving rock-built forts asunder. 

47 



What avails the speed of navies, 

Eocking on the subject tide? 
N"othing when the Lord of Hosts 

Battles on the righteous side. 
He who giveth not the race 

To the swift nor to the strong 
War's red honor, but alway 

Strengthens them who suffer long. 

Surel}' He on Trenton's niglit 

Steeled our mighty champion's heart. 
Gave him wisdom, gave him power, 

So to play his destined part. 
Brought the fiercest down before him, 

Turned the bravest back to fly; 
Covered aye, his head in battle 

That no hair of it should die. 

'Held him steadfast in the right 

'Till his glorious task was o'er 
And no hostile banner waved 

On Columbia's hallowed shore. 
'Till his name was spread abroad 

For a nation's freedom won 
All honored from the setting 

To the risins; of the sun. 



48 



jjIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
011 800 182 5 # 



